Leather
Cowhide or horsehide may be used for
reinforcing patches where heavy wear occurs. It
is used for reinforcing patches for grommets and
chafing strips on seat belts. Artificial leather has
replaced the natural product, and is used to a large
extent for seat pad, crash pad, and upholstery
covering.
Vinyl
Vinyl is a plastic material and is used in many
instances in the fabric shop. Vinyl is available in
various thicknesses, depending on its intended use.
It may be used for seat covers or ventilating
clothing. The type used for ventilating clothing
consists of two layers of flexible vinyl film. Vinyl
is vaportight and has a smooth surface. Soap and
water can be used to clean it. Do not use ammonia
detergents for cleaning because this bleaches the
vinyl.
WEBBINGS AND TAPES
You already know that cloth is fabric wider
than 12 inches. Any fabric less than 12 inches,
from selvage to selvage edge, is called webbing
or tape. The dividing line between webbing and
tape is determined by the respective weight.
Webbings
The heavier of the two is webbing. Webbing
weighs over 15 ounces per square yard and is less
than 12 inches wide. As you would expect,
webbings are used for the toughest holding and
reinforcing jobs. Slings, harnesses, safety belts,
reinforcing and securing straps are made of nylon,
with a wide variety of tensile strength. The
personnel parachute harness has a tensile strength
range of 6,000 to 8,700 pounds. Some nylon
webbings are of tubular construction, which
makes them very strong. Tubular webbings are
1/2 to 1 inch wide, with tensile strengths ranging
from 1,000 to 4,000 pounds.
Tapes
In addition to webbings, there are the
lightweight tapes of a twill weave construction.
You can use tapes for reinforcement on many
types of fabric covers. Tapes can weigh up to 15
ounces per square yard. Cloth tapes are woven
in the same manner as fabric. Some are bias,
which, because of the bias cut or construction,
aid the binding of curved edges where stretching
qualities are desired. These bias tapes are
sometimes referred to as binding tapes.
Velcro tape is commonly used in many
shops as a fastening or closing device. Velcro
tape consists of two parts-the hook and the
pile or loop tape. The hook tape is made of nylon,
which consists of a series of small hooks. The
nylon pile or loop tape has many small loops.
When the two parts of the tape are joined, the
hooks engage with the loops holding the two tapes
together.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
THREADS AND CORDS
The difference between threads and cords is
discussed in the following text.
Threads
Filaments (nylon) or staples (cotton) are
twisted together to form yarns, and two or more
yarns are twisted together to forma thread or ply
yarns, as the yarn by itself is too small for
practical use. The strength of a thread depends
upon the size and number of yarns used to make
up the thread. The thread numbers on spools
indicate the size of the yarn and the number of
yarns that are piled (or twisted) together to give
the necessary strength to the thread. For example,
a 16-4 thread indicates that the thread was made
from a single yarn, size 16, and that four of these
single yarns were twisted together to make a
thread. The finer the yarn used, the higher its size
number. Silk and nylon thread sizes, however, are
indicated by letters, such as A, B, etc.; A is finer
than B; the farther down the alphabet, the coarser
the thread.
Thread is twisted to the left or twisted to the
right, depending on its use. Left-twist thread is
always used in the sewing machine because the
action of the stitch-forming mechanism tends to
ravel or break right-twist thread. Left- or right-
twist thread may be used for hand sewing. The
terms that designate left-twist threads are
machine, machine twist, left twist, and Z twist.
A cord or thread has left (or Z) twist if, when held
in a vertical position, the twist of the yarn follows
the slope of the central portion of the letter Z;
and right (or S) twist, if it follows the slope of
10-4